During our visit to Thailand we visited the Kaeng Krachan National Park. It covers almost 3000 km² and is largely made up of dense forest. Our hope was to see some large animals, that the kids would enjoy and also just to experience the jungle.
The National Park is one hours drive from our hotel at Cha Am and we arrived a few hours after sunrise. It is only possible to drive about 15 km into the park – to the Ban Krang camping site. There is a camp site further into the park, but it is closed at the moment.
Most of our exploring was done from the car as we drove the 15 km to the camping site very slowly. Every here and there we made stops, when some places looked promising or if some birds were present.
To put it short the birding was amazing. Just along the way there were so many birds to be seen. But they were hard to observe and not exactly family-friendly. Luckily some Orintal Pied Hornbills were quite cooperative and the kids enjoyed these birds quite a lot.
We also has a Crested Serpant Eagle sitting right next to the road, which made me quite excited.
After about an hour we came across a flock of Dusky Leaf Monkeys. They were feeding next to the road. These monkeys look just awesome with their black fur and white lips and eye rings. They didn’t bother with our presence and offered great views.
Hill Myna 
Blue-winged Leafbird 
Asian Fairy Bluebird
As we arrived at the Ban Krang camp we made at stop to eat – and I wondered off to do some birding. Bulbuls, Minivets, Sunbirds, Taylorbirds, Leafbirds, Hill Myna, phylloscopus-warblers and many more birds were present in good numbers.
But the kids were most impressed with all the colourful butterflies foraging on Elephant dung.
We took a little walk in the forest, where we good good views of a Banded Bay Cuckoo. But birding the forest with kids wasn’t too easy, so we headed back and started driving back home.
On our way down we got exceptional views of Black-hooded, White-throated and Common Kingfishers. These birds got the kids quite excited.
We also had a good selection of Barbets including Green-eared, Coppersmith and Blue-eared Barbet.
We were also treated with some swallows including Red-rumped Swallow, Ashy Wood Swallow and Grey-rumped Tree-swift as we left the park.
The park is wonderful for dedicated birders. With patience and luck plenty of birds can be found. But it’s not the ideal park for families with kids. The chance of actually seeing large mammals is not at all as high as on an African safaris. But we had a good time non the less.
My lovely wife noticed my struggle with combining birding and family-time. So on the way home she gave me an offer I couldn’t refuse. I could use a full day in the park on my own, since we still had a few days left in the country. I was was quick to accept the offer and the very next morning at 6:00 AM I drove into the park as soon as the gates opened.
It was still dark as I slowly drove along the road expecting all kinds of animals to cross the road. In a few places branches and dung covered the road – a sign of Elephants foraging along the road during the night. But in spite of several stops I didn’t see anything until I reached the 9 km stone, which Peter Ericsson had pointed out as a hot-spot along the road.
As I stopped I heard the familiar sound of Roosters calling and soon a splendid Red Junglefowl crossed the road in the sparse light. It was great to connect with the wild chicken in its natural habitat.
I contiued walking along the road as more and more birds got active. Thick-billed Green Pigeon, Black-crested Bulbul, five species of Drongos, the stunning Asian Fairy-bluebird, White-rumped Shama, Verditers flycatcher and several Babblers were all good treats.
All the exotic birds were breathtaking, but the highlighs were a skulky Pale-legged Leaf Warbler and a very showy Radde’s Warbler. The former was a lifer and the second I’ve only seen briefly before. Now I got to enjoy it as it was foraging on the road side.
I then returned to the 9 km point, where at least ten birders were now standing. As I stood there a pair of Black-thighed Falconets landed in a tree close by offering amazing views.
I had hoped to see the Great Slaty Woodpecker. Peter had seen it in the area one day earlier, but I got tired of the crowds and asked a friendly Thai birdguide where to go to find it. He told me to follow the road from the Ban Kang towards west. He also said that the tracks around the camp were full of people, but they rarely took the road (which is closed of for cars currently).
On my drive from the 9 km point to the camp I bumped into a flock of Stump-tailed Macaques. Not the most charming looking animals, but cool to see them non the less.
I followed the guides advice and started walking from the Ban Kang camp. And if the morning had been good this was absolutely amazing. I came across a family flock of Sultan Tits, which were just amazing. A distant Green Magpie was a flash of colors, that took my breath away and a Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher showed really well.
Suddenly I heard some scratching inside the forest next to the road and soon I found a Kalij Pheasant passing me occasionally flapping its wings. Amazing!
Then I came across a flock of female Dusky Leaf Monkeys with newborn youngs. As I stood still they came really close almost presenting their small reddish-yellow offspring to me. They stayed around for about 20 minutes before heading off giving some almost once-in-a-lift-time photo oppertunities.
A little later I heard something climbing in a tree and it turned out to be the endangered Ler Gibbon. It was well hidden most of the time, but was almost visible on a few occasions. Stunning to observe it foraging just hanging in a single arm. Suddenly it started singing and soon the forest was full of noise like I’ve never heard before as the whole flock of Gibbons in the area replied. An experience beyond words.
At a stream I met two French birders, and we walked together for a while. Suddenly a male Blue Pitta was foraging just 10 meters away from us. My first pitta species ever. It gave good albeit brief views.
A little further on a group of Raffel’s Molkohas showed well along with the commoner Green-billed Molkohas. Impressive birds as well.
As we passed a large tree we heard a really heavy bird take off. I’ve never heard wing-beats like that – and it was of course the Giant Hornbill. We only saw it briefly, but luckily I spotted another individual roosting in a tree shortly after.
I also found a few woodpeckers including Greater Flameback, Grey-headed Woodpecker and Greater Yellownape. Slide through the pictures below!
Sadly my time had come to return home, but on the way back to the Ban Kang camp Scaly-breasted Partridge, Orange-breasted Trogon and Ruby-cheeked Sunbird were added to the list.
As I drove back from the Ban Kang Camp to the park entrance I saw a dark, but large shadow sneaking away into the forest from a drinking hole next to the road just as I arrived… that shadow still hunts me as it could have been a black Leopard. But I’ll never know.
All in all it was nothing but amazing to spend a full day of birding in Kaeng Krachan. If I ever visit Thailand again I hope to use more time in the park as I feel like I’ve only scratched the surface. If so much can be seen in a single day of birding I can only imagine how much a few more days would have to offer – especially a little later in spring.
If you are interested in learning more about the park you can visit the thaibirding homepage: https://www.thaibirding.com/locations/west/kk.htm
Silas
birdingmongolia.wordpress.com 
Just found your blog and I’m loving the great photos and amazing birds! Many of these birds (especially the ones in Mongolia) are dream birds for me!
One note, the album of woodpeckers, you mentioned you saw some including Greater Flameback, Grey-headed Woodpecker and Greater Yellownape. Then the photos are of the flameback and yellownape, but the first one is a Streak-breasted
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Accidently submitted the comment before I was done…
It was supposed to include
… but the first one is a Streak-breasted Woodpecker. You may’ve known already, just making sure.
Keep up the good work!!
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Thanks a lot for your comments!
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